{"id":2453,"date":"2023-10-08T17:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-10-08T15:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/der-bussard.de\/en\/?p=2453"},"modified":"2023-10-08T01:03:39","modified_gmt":"2023-10-07T23:03:39","slug":"swiss-bundnerfleisch-history-and-production-of-the-grisons-delicacy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/der-bussard.de\/en\/2023\/10\/08\/swiss-bundnerfleisch-history-and-production-of-the-grisons-delicacy\/","title":{"rendered":"Swiss B\u00fcndnerfleisch: History and production of the Grisons delicacy"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

In many regions, one is used to beef or pork products being smoked in order to preserve them for as long as possible: However, this is not the case with B\u00fcndnerfleisch. This speciality, which traditionally comes from the Swiss canton of Grisons, is not smoked at all. B\u00fcndnerfleisch is completely air-dried and preserved with the help of sea salt and a spice mixture. But it is not only the knowledge about air-drying meat that distinguishes a slice of B\u00fcndnerfleisch: The canton of Grisons, which is characterised by imposing mountain landscapes, has a special climate. Today, Grisons still has the highest meat-drying facility in Europe \u2013 at an altitude of over 1500 metres. It is often said that the special, juicy taste of B\u00fcndnerfleisch can be attributed to the alpine climate in the canton of Grisons: However, behind the production of B\u00fcndnerfleisch there is also a wealth of knowledge about the drying of meat, which has been passed down through generations in many drying plants.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To ensure that a slice of B\u00fcndnerfleisch is\u00a0 a very lean meat product, the piece of meat is trimmed of fat and tendons.\u00a0<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Curing and spice mix<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

This wealth of knowledge includes, among other things, the fact that only meat from the thigh muscles and the topside of the beef is used for the production of B\u00fcndnerfleisch \u2013 this meat is naturally considered to be particularly lean and tender at the same time. Lean and tender, these are two characteristics that apply to all original B\u00fcndnerfleisch \u2013 the dried meat is also very popular as a diet for athletes because of its low fat content. Eating B\u00fcndnerfleisch to accompany a training schedule can even help build muscle \u2013 this is due to the high protein content of B\u00fcndnerfleisch.\u00a0
To ensure that a slice of B\u00fcndnerfleisch is\u00a0 a very lean meat product, the piece of meat is trimmed of fat and tendons.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then the piece of meat is rubbed with a mixture of sea salt, curing agents and spices \u2013 usually garlic, juniper berries or bay leaf are used as part of the spice mixture. Now the pieces of meat are piled on top of each other in large vessels and cured for a period of five days to five weeks at temperatures of 2 to 6 degrees Celsius. The juices that come out of the meat during this process should perfectly mix with the spices \u2013 which is why the pieces of meat are regularly rearranged during this time.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Drying \u2013 Enormous moisture loss<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

After curing comes the actual process of drying: Before drying, the meat is first washed and brushed to remove the spice mixture completely from the meat. Now the pieces of meat are packed in nets and hung up in air-conditioned rooms to dry. Temperatures of 12 to 18 degrees Celsius are common for drying \u2013 very traditional, smaller businesses don\u2019t need air-conditioned rooms for this process and actually hang the B\u00fcndnerfleisch in the air at a suitable time of year. The process of drying takes a minimum of three and a maximum of six months \u2013 in the course of this process the meat loses an enormous amount of water. This water loss may be up to 55% of the original \u2013  this fact is one of the reasons why B\u00fcndnerfleisch is a rather highly traded delicacy. Assuming an original quantity of meat of one kilogram, it is not uncommon for 500 grams of B\u00fcndnerfleisch to remain in the end.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To ensure that the water is optimally distributed in the meat despite the high water loss, the B\u00fcndnerfleisch is regularly pressed into shape during the drying process, which also creates the characteristic rectangular shape of a piece of B\u00fcndnerfleisch.\u00a0
In the course of the drying process, a white layer of mould develops on the surface of the B\u00fcndnerfleisch \u2013 this layer falls under the category of Botrytis and is usually removed before sale. However, it is precisely this Botrytis that is responsible for the aromas that give B\u00fcndnerfleisch its unique flavour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bresaola and B\u00fcndnerfleisch <\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The beef speciality from the canton of Grisons is a delicacy that should definitely be sliced wafer-thin: genuine B\u00fcndnerfleisch tastes so strong that even a wafer-thin slice is enough to cover a slice of bread.\u00a0
Dried meat products usually have the reputation of tasting extremely dry \u2013 this is not the case with B\u00fcndnerfleisch. A slice of B\u00fcndnerfleisch is extremely juicy, not least because the cuts from the thigh muscle and the topside are considered particularly succulent pieces of meat. Another secret in the production of B\u00fcndnerfleisch is to use meat from rather older cows \u2013 the flavour is stronger that way.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

B\u00fcndnerfleisch also inspired other dried meat products: Bresaola della Valtellina<\/a> from the Valtellina Valley, which is very close to Grisons, is produced according to similar specifications as B\u00fcndnerfleisch. Since the Valtellina valley was a subject of the Swiss Free State of the Three Leagues from 1512 to 1798, it can be assumed that people in the Valtellina valley took their cue from the Grisons methods of drying meat and created their own product, Bresaola. \u00a0
Nevertheless, a slice of Bresaola tastes quite different from a slice of B\u00fcndnerfleisch: this is mainly due to the different spice mixtures used in the two products. However, stricter specifications apply to B\u00fcndnerfleisch than to Bresaola, especially with regard to the choice of meat cuts.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Depending on the season in which a piece of B\u00fcndnerfleisch was hung to dry, the taste varies.<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A living tradition<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

To this day, there are still producers in the alpine region of Grisons who make B\u00fcndnerfleisch the old-fashioned way: In some meat drying plants, B\u00fcndnerfleisch is dried as it was several hundred years ago. There is no air-conditioning technology here – the temperature is regulated by opening and closing windows, and in summer a nearby river or lake acts as an air-conditioning system for the drying plant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is also a matter of experience to recognise when a piece of B\u00fcndnerfleisch has finished drying: the manual production process means that not every piece has completed the drying process after a fixed time. A piece of B\u00fcndnerfleisch that has been completely dried has a dark red colour throughout, a fine texture and a spicy taste that is by no means too salty. Depending on the season in which a piece of B\u00fcndnerfleisch was hung to dry, the taste also varies: B\u00fcndnerfleisch dried in summer sometimes tastes more intense than B\u00fcndnerfleisch dried in winter air. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The beef used to make B\u00fcndnerfleisch does not necessarily have to originate from Switzerland: The specifications only stipulate that the refinement, the process of curing and the drying must take place in the canton of Grisons. If all the beef for the production of B\u00fcndnerfleisch had to originate from Switzerland, it would be extremely difficult to satisfy the international demand for B\u00fcndnerfleisch. However, there are traders who specialise in using only beef from Switzerland for the production of B\u00fcndnerfleisch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Swiss speciality<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

What was originally the only method of preserving beef for a long time a few hundred years ago is now an internationally sought-after product and \u2013 like Swiss Emmental<\/a> \u2013 enjoys a high reputation.
There are numerous Swiss recipes and dishes that use B\u00fcndnerfleisch: The great advantage of dried meat from Grisons is that even small and very thinly sliced quantities are enough to flavour a dish and contribute a meaty character. The fact that B\u00fcndnerfleisch \u2013 compared to other beef hams \u2013 is not smoked can also offer a flavour advantage: In some dishes, a smoky note is not desirable and would be rather distracting.\u00a0
The production of B\u00fcndnerfleisch looks back on a centuries-old tradition \u2013 thanks to its low fat content and high protein content, B\u00fcndnerfleisch is a meat speciality that can be eaten even if one prefers low-fat meals and follows a training schedule. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Simon von Ludwig<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cover picture: \u00a9 Simon von Ludwig<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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